Triston Brewer
In this detailed guide, we cover what made the 1940s such an influential decade in Men's Style, and how gentlemen truly dressed in this pivotal era!
The 1940s was a transcendent time in the history of the country as well as its influence on the style of men in the country. Historians today can demarcate the era into two halves, with World War II hovering over the beginning of the decade.
The impact of rations on style at this time affected not only the materials used, but also quantities and indirectly the looks that men adopted. By the tail end of the decade, the class system which had been in place had effectively shattered, ushering in a societal codes that transformed menswear forever. Gone were the clear-cut divisions in class between the rich and the poor, the haves and the have-nots. The 40s marked a first in American culture where the average man could emulate many of the looks that previously they could not access.
Courtesy of www.vintagedancer.com
Another byproduct of World War II was the influence of military gear on the general public as the look of war bled into the casualwear, a new aspect of men’s style that gained prominence alongside more formal attire during the 1940s. With patriotism at an all-time high, American men had a new-found respect for life, freedom, and the pursuit of happiness as well as style.
The 1940s finally allowed men of all socioeconomic levels to relax, be more creative in their sartorial choices and adopt a style all their own and with fewer restrictions. The end result was creativity previously unforeseen in the country, a celebratory decade in the history of fashion.
Key Takeaways
If any decade was about transition, it was the 1940s, as it marked a definitive march towards modernity in fashion that moved away from the limitations of the previous decade. Due to the limitations of available fabrics, innovations in the industry laid the foundation for the introduction of timeless pieces that became mainstays in men’s wardrobes.
Those included the now classic bomber jacket, the double-breasted suit, zoot suits, and a trademark of the era - the fedora hat. Now considered staples in menswear, these pieces and more emphasized utility and functionality with the added ingredient of flair for good measure.
Zoot Suits characterized rebellion against the fabric reduction of the war rationing era in the 1940’s. These suits were particularly popular amongst gangsters and underground clubs, often used by those who were into swing dancing and jazz music.
After the midway point of the decade, men’s fashion made a move towards more opulent designs that saw brands veer towards jackets with broader shoulders, roomier trousers, and waistlines that were more defined - effectively paving the way for the country’s prosperity in the 1950s. Now with fewer limitations on fabric, more flamboyant styles materialized that resonated with once marginalized communities.
Style Essentials of the 1940s
To get the quintessential look of the 1940s, men had to perfectly bring all the pieces together to create a winning aesthetic from head to toe.
Suits
Suits of the era consisted mainly of a structured silhouette that accentuated shoulders and cinched waists, a near 180 from the more relaxed styles seen the decade before. Suits adopted a simpler approach, with fewer pockets, fewer pocket flaps, belted features, and lapel sizes. Patch pockets that mirrored war fatigues also became a popular addition during the quickly evolving decade.
1940’s suits were characterized by wider shoulders and cinched waists! Courtesy of www.pinterest.com
Another unexpected result of the war on fashion was the practice of men mixing and matching suit tops with sweaters, shirts, and pants. This led to more distinctive styles and gave men more options which diversified their wardrobes. Previously, military uniforms were made from wool material, leaving a blend of rayon and wool worn by civilians as a more durable option which could be worn across seasons.
Pinstripes and muted tones continued their dominance, but the introduction of mixing and styling became more popular across the decade. Once the war was over and restrictions ceased, men were able to adopt a more elegant suit aesthetic.
Suits in the 1940’s were often characterized by mixing and matching of jackets and pants, along with the incorporation of sweaters. Talk about experimentation! Courtesy of www.vintagedancer.com
Shirts
Suits in the 1940s primarily consisted of the plain white dress shirts and utility shirts, both serving as essential pieces in the wardrobes of both working and servicemen alike. Both included ‘soft collars’ and are very similar to the style worn by men in the present day.
However, technological advancements led to the introduction of micro patterns, plaid, and other designs that became fixtures in everyday wear for the man of the era. Also, spear point collars - collars with very long tips - became popular and then receded closer to the neck as the decade progressed.
The spearpoint collar – an ode to 1940’s fashion! Courtesy of www.alittlebitofrest.com
Another popular shirt option for men during this time were camp shirts, which served as one of the jumping off points towards casual wear in men’s wardrobes. Short-sleeved and made of lightweight fabric, they were made with one or two breast front pockets and offered a relaxed fit that could be worn throughout the day. Today’s equivalent would be a bowling shirt, another style that has gained popularity in modern times.
Pants
The trousers of the 1940s were primarily of the high-waisted variety, a look which emphasized the male physique by showcasing broader chests and a narrower waist. The cut was wider than those worn today, but the zoot suit oversized trend paired with an elongated jacket was a definitive style statement of the era.
Although considered unpatriotic at the time because of its excessive use of fabric and untraditional silhouette, zoot suits became popular in marginalized communities that had typically been denied entry into mainstream culture. The look was not just a style statement, but a sartorial act of rebellion.
Zoot Suit Pants were a definitive style statement of this era! Courtesy of www.pinterest.com
Sweaters & Knitwear
Sweaters during the 1940s were a necessary layering piece at the time for warmth, with crew neck sweaters gaining popularity at the time. Many men of the era layered them with a collared shirt for an added level of sophistication for casual wear.
Courtesy of www.etsy.com
The most popular fabric at the time was wool, thanks to its warmth and durability. V-neck sweaters were also a staple of the times, sometimes paired with a tie for a semi-formal look that was particularly prevalent on campuses across the country as a symbol of intellectualism.
Making a big return to the forefront of men’s fashion during the 1940s were cardigans, which went from being viewed as only functional to a stylish piece to add versatility to a man’s wardrobe.
Typically made from wool, cardigans could be worn buttoned down or open depending on the weather. Also popular at the time were commando sweaters, a rugged option of sweaters reinforced at the elbows and shoulders that were first worn in the military and then became popular in everyday casualwear.
Cardigans became increasingly popular during the 1940s. Courtesy of www.pinterest.com
Jackets & Outerwear
One of the most popular jackets to emerge during the 1940s were bomber jackets, which were initially made for pilots during World War II and then quickly became a staple among American civilians. Typically made from leather or canvas material, bomber jackets were not only durable and provided adequate warmth, but were viewed as a patriotic statement.
Few items attest to 1940s Men’s Fashion like the bomber jacket! Courtesy of www.decortoadore.net
Another popular addition to men’s outerwear during the 1940s was the trench coat, which was first designed for British officers before World War I. Well-respected for their style and warmth, trench coats became popular with businessmen and were viewed as a stylish option that came with distinctive belts, storm flaps. An added bonus? Trench coats were water-resistant to be able to withstand the elements.
Trench Coats became the style de jour with businessmen in the 1940s! Courtesy of www.vintagedancer.com
Footwear
The 1940s saw menswear tread a fine line between everyday elegance and the utilitarian needs of wartime. With shoes also being rationed during this era, second-hand shoes became a fact of life for many men, which meant shoes from the previous decade returned to prominence.
Military boots that were formerly worn only in the armed forces became popular with civilians as they were durable and made for tough conditions. For more formal occasions, rounded Oxfords in either a two-toned design or cap-toe became a popular choice for many men.
Dr. Martens made military boots accessible to civilians during the 1940s! Courtesy of www.pinterest.com
In the middle of the decade, Dr. Martens began a reign that extends to modern times, and was initially a military boot respected for its durability and comfort. Today, Doc Martens are considered iconic in men’s footwear.
Loafers also became a trend after World War II as more men were able to add more comfort and casual wear into their wardrobe. Saddle shoes and desert boots were other types of footwear that became a staple for men during this era.
Men’s Loafers started to take hold as comfort took more prominence post World War II. Courtesy of www.vintagedancer.com
Men’s Formalwear in the 1940s
Suits of the 1940s remained solidly structured as men’s silhouettes in formalwear remained conservative as World War II raged on. This translated into double-breasted suits being popularized at the time, known for their cinched waists and wide lapels that gave men the coveted V-shaped torso.
Double Breasted Suits, along with cinched waists, provided that coveted V-shaped torso. Courtesy of www.contemposuits.com
War time restrictions influenced styles to a degree, however, with single-breasted suits gaining favor for their simpler design and versatility.
Featuring two to three buttons and a streamlined silhouette, single-breasted suits offered the option to men of being worn for both casual and business occasions, a sleek alternative that was also more lightweight due to its construction from linen or cotton.
Single Breasted Suits became a commonplace alternative given restrictions of the war era. Courtesy of www.vintagedancer.com
White shirts remained the go-to hue for men in the 1940s as they were known for their simplicity and refined look that complemented suits. Men of a certain age at the time still preferred a detachable collar for a sharper presentation.
Wider ties dominated the era, with bolder patterns becoming more prevalent among men. Typically made from silk or rayon, the trend of the era saw men wearing stripes, geometric patterns, polka dots, or brighter hues to give their look a dash of color.
By the end of the decade one thing was clear - men were making a concerted effort to elevate their overall look with more precision tailoring and paying attention to the finer details that made a look truly stand out.
Wider Ties with high waisted pants characterized much of formal wear during the 1940s. Courtesy of www.vintagedancer.com
Men’s Casualwear in the 1940s
The penchant for repurposing clothes during the 1940s included chinos and khaki pants which were added to civilian lifestyles because of their comfort and durability. Paired with a crisp button-down shirt, it became a staple of everyday casual wear for men.
Hawaiian Shirts became a popular part of casual wear during the 1940s! Courtesy of www.pinterest.com
Another option to pair with chinos were Hawaiian-style shirts, a nod to the more leisure approach to menswear adopted by men at the time. Denim jeans began to make a bigger impression in men’s wardrobes during the 1940s as they gravitated from not only workwear but to everyday wear.
By the end of the decade, the classic look of jeans paired with a t-shirt had made its way from men in the military to men on the silver screen of Hollywood - a nod to its surging popularity. To complete the look, boat shoes, canvas sneakers, and loafers became trends of the decade, marking a conscious move towards laid-back fashion that minimized the restrictions previously held during the war.
Men’s Accessories in the 1940s
Hats
Hats were considered an absolute in menswear during the 1940s, showcasing the socioeconomic status as well as style of the wearer. Fedoras were the most popular type of headwear at the time, known for its wide brim, indented crown, and elevated sense of style as well as practicality.
They were followed closely by trilby hats, which were a bit narrower and added a more contemporary dynamic to a man’s wardrobe. Outside of the middle class men, newsboy caps and berets offered a more relaxed look and were a stylish substitute for men among the working class, providing both style and substance.
Few things conjure up images of 1940s fashion like the Fedora! Courtesy of www.vintagedancer.com
Watches
Watches became the de facto accessory for men during the 1940s after being relegated primarily to active duty men as a necessity. The style at the time leaned towards functional yet elegant, often consisting of leather straps, metal cases, and dynamic dials. As the trend towards watches grew, more options emerged which reflected the era’s curiosity with aviation and precision
Ties
Already a staple of menswear by the 1940s, ties of the era offered more variety - from bolder, wider designs to narrow, more muted styles that echoed the trends of the time. Silk remained the preferred material, with some hand-painted designs becoming popular. Bow ties continued to hold a special slot in formal wear as an alternative to be worn for more formal events.
Zoot Suits in the 1940s accompanied by wider ties. What could possibly go wrong! Courtesy of www.pinterest.com
Suspenders and Belts
Like bow ties, suspenders remained a special place in menswear in the 1940s, typically paired with high-waisted pants to provide functionality and elegance. Belts, however, became more popular at this time, with western-styled belts gaining popularity as they were paired with relaxed western shirts and other accessories, like cowboy boots.
Glasses
The eyeglasses of the 1940s usually were of the round variety and made from sturdy metal or plastic frames that created an intellectual aesthetic to a man’s overall look. As the war progressed and then ultimately ended, aviator glasses gained popularity and continue to be one of the dominating styles worn today.
Courtesy of www.pinterest.com
Popular Menswear Accessories for Men in the 1940s
Accessories became one of the defining details of making or breaking a man’s outfit during the 40s, which resulted in other accessories becoming more popular to round out a man’s ensemble.
Pocket Squares and other men’s accessories became increasingly popular during the 1940s! Courtesy of www.vintagedancer.com
They included the rise in popularity of pocket squares, cufflinks, and leather accessories from gloves to wallets and even briefcases became a part of the standard male ensemble as a symbol of status. Military-inspired fashion seeped into accessories as well, with dog tags and belt buckles reflecting the last effects of the war on the decade's style.
Big Names in 1940s Men’s Fashion
The 1940s fashion scene was influenced by a mix of designers, Hollywood icons, and war heroes. Designers like Hardy Amies and Brooks Brothers adapted to wartime restrictions, innovating with limited materials while maintaining elegance.
Hollywood stars such as Humphrey Bogart and Cary Grant set trends with their on-screen and off-screen style, re-popularizing the trench coat and tailored suits. Meanwhile, military figures like General Douglas MacArthur became unintended fashion icons, with their aviator sunglasses and practical yet stylish military wear influencing civilian fashion.
Cary Grant popularized the trench coat in the 1940s. Courtesy of www.pinterest.com
Wearing 1940s Men's Fashion Today
Bringing the styles of the 1940s into a modern wardrobe consists of adding quintessential pieces from the era from high-waisted pants and double-breasted suits to classic fedora hats. Hawaiian print shirts and leather bomber jackets have been slightly upgraded for the times and are great for adding a vintage aesthetic to casualwear.
For a truly classic look that always wins, men can choose from brogues or Oxford shoes and pair them with leather belts or watches featuring a vintage vibe.
Reflecting on 1940s Fashion
As one of the most inspiring eras of fashion, the 1940s continues to play a vital role in menswear, offering a distinct source to cull elements of style that can still be seen today in the design of tailored pieces, accessories, and military accents in casualwear.
Men of today can bring the 40s into their ensemble through modern suiting, vintage pieces which pay homage to the decade, and incorporating structured silhouettes with a modern twist to produce the quintessential elements of 1940s style.
And that's a wrap for this one. We hope that you have enjoyed reading this as much as we have writing it!
