Knowing how to choose the perfect tie is a sartorial rite of passage every aspiring dapper gentleman must go through. In this detailed guide, we cover how to choose the perfect tie taking into account: occasion, coordinating tie patterns and colors with your suits & shirts, tie width, tie fabric and what your tie patterns convey about you!
So you’re ready to strut that suit, you think. Dress shirts have been crisply ironed. Your swanky, brand new bespoke herringbone navy suit is hanging by the closet, ready to be worn for the first time. The pants fit exquisitely, and the drape on that jacket is ever so sublime. Heck, you’re so excited, you’ve even had your oxford cap toes professionally polished. You really are ready to go all out – you know, dressed to the nines.
Except for one glaring omission. An omission, that has occurred, intentionally, nonetheless. Out of a perplexing sense of uncertainty, confusion & fear. Caused by that singular item that most men shudder at when asked to select. Yes, that one. The necktie.
Featuring The Dark Knot’s Argegno Foulard Brown / Blue Made In Italy Silk Tie
You would think pairing a necktie with your suit and shirt should be as easy as counting to three. Unfortunately, with a variety of variables at play, indecision fatigue only goes in one direction – stronger, more perplexing and ultimately, more burdensome. But fret not – in this detailed guide, we cover everything you need to know about selecting the right tie for your attire. And no, it’s not only about color and pattern coordination.
While there are multiple ways to approach tie selection, we think adopting a top down view is the most effective:
Occasion
Ultimately, the setting or occasion that you are dressing swanky for is going to largely determine the type of tie that you decide to strut.
When dressing up within a more formal capacity- think interview, presentation or even a wedding, we suggest going for a traditional silk tie. It is imperative that the tie be neither too wide nor too skinny. The key with dressing well for a formal setting is to avoid the extremes – stay cautious and reduce that risk of looking out of place.
Traditional Silk Ties work extremely well in a more formal capacity! Featuring The Dark Knot’s Berkshire Abstract Burgundy / Blue Silk Tie.
Tie patterns that work best within a formal setting include repeating foulard patterns, solid & striped silk ties. For occasions / settings that offer more flexibility with regards to dress code, we could also consider polka dot, paisley or floral tie patterns.
Why do we tend to opt for silk ties in formal settings? Silk Ties are generally preferred because of their ability to drape gracefully, in addition to being able to retain their shape. Furthermore, the luxurious touch & sheen that they provide adds to their allure. Finally, properties of silk mean that these ties can be tied and untied in a knot and withstand frequent use, without being subject to significant wrinkling or damage.
It is important to note that casual / less formal settings can be accompanied by slimmer ties and / or ties composed of alternate fabrics. Slimmer ties, whether they are comprised of silk, or an alternative material such as cotton, wool or polyester, tend to make your attire look less formal. An exception to this general rule of thumb would be for slim men wearing slimmer suits with narrower lapels. In such instances, a skinnier silk tie could still be used in a more formal capacity!
Skinny Silk Ties work to perfection in a more casual setting. Featuring The Dark Knot’s Trumbull Abstract Navy & Silver Skinny Silk Tie.
Matching Tie Colors
Figuring out which tie colors go with your suits & shirts largely boils down to the type of color scheme that you are opting for – and a color wheel can be extremely helpful in this regard. Color wheels help one create a sense of ‘harmony’ or balance between warmer and cooler colors.
On the more conservative end of the spectrum, color wheels allow you to choose lighter or darker variants of the same color e.g a navy tie against a light blue shirt. Conversely, on the more risky end of color coordination, color wheels will guide you towards choosing diametrically opposing colors, such as a orange tie against a light blue shirt! Certainly not for the faint of heart!
Monochromatic Color Scheme: A monochromatic color scheme involves using different shades or tints of the same color e.g a burgundy tie against a lighter pink shirt, or a navy tie against a lighter blue shirt. This creates an elegant, seamless and cohesive look. Most importantly, a monochromatic color scheme requires little level of discernment and risk taking. Simply pair a darker colored tie variant with a lighter colored shirt – and you’re good to go!
A monochromatic color scheme creates for the perfect, seamless look! Featuring The Dark Knot’s Domaso Grenadine Navy Silk Tie.
Analogous Color Scheme: Considered the next step in color risk progression, an analogous color scheme involves pairing adjacent colors on the color wheel. For example, a light blue shirt pairs exquisitely with a purple tie (both cooler colors).
Similarly, a light blue shirt also pairs extremely well with an olive green tie (also both cooler colors). An analogous color scheme essentially creates a feeling of familiarity – and hence, an aesthetic that doesn’t appear too bold. Pairing cooler colors together allows for a harmonious look without being overtly bold.
A light blue shirt provides the perfect backdrop for an olive green tie in this analogous color scheme. Featuring The Dark Knot’s Kingsbury Floral Olive Green & Gold Silk Tie.
Triadic Color Scheme: Which brings us to our next progression when experimenting with color. A triadic color scheme, which entails pairing colors that form part of a triangle on a color wheel, essentially involves pairing a warmer color with a cooler color.
Popular examples include pairing a red or burgundy tie with a light blue shirt. Conversely, a blue or navy tie pairs exceptionally well with a light pink shirt, creating that perfect harmony between warm and cooler colors.
A burgundy tie paired crisply with a light blue shirt is the epitome of a well executed triadic color scheme! Featuring The Dark Knot’s Patterson Foulard Burgundy / Silver Silk Tie.
Complementary Color Scheme: Proceed with caution. The grand daddy of them all. Complementary color schemes involve choosing colors that are diametrically across from each other on the color wheel, resulting in the strongest contrast between warm and cool colors.
A burnt orange tie contrasting perfectly against a light blue shirt! Courtesy of www.askthegentleman.com
Examples (not that many abound) include pairing a rust orange tie with a light blue shirt! While one could strut a brighter orange tie against a light blue shirt, this would result in the strongest level of contrast.
Matching Tie Patterns
When it comes to matching tie patterns, ideally, you want to have an element of contrast between your shirt & tie. As a general rule of thumb, when starting out, you want to avoid mixing and matching three patterns as it can be considered overkill, especially if you are unsure as to what you are doing.
Contrary to popular opinion, when matching tie patterns, difference in pattern proportion is more important than differences in pattern. Hence, a wider striped tie design will pop off exquisitely against a finely striped dress shirt, while a smaller repeating foulard pattern will clash with a striped dress shirt – even if the pattern is different.
As mentioned above, variation in pattern proportion matters more than pattern differences. Here, a wider striped tie pops off exquisitely against a finely striped shirt. Featuring The Dark Knot’s Canterbury Regimental Navy / Red Striped Silk Tie.
In essence, there are two ways to match a tie pattern to a dress shirt – but both ways involve paying attention to pattern proportion first.
- Pick a pattern that is similar in scope but different in proportion. An example of this includes pairing a wider striped tie against a finely striped dress shirt.
- Pick a pattern that is completely different. Instead of using wider striped ties, as suggested above, one can opt for a different pattern, that is proportionally different, such as a polka dot or paisley tie.
- 3.If in doubt about how to match tie patterns to your dress shirts – we suggest opting for a solid tie. Solid ties present the easiest way to match ties to a patterned dress shirt.
Similarly, one can go for a repeating foulard or floral pattern with some level of spacing relatively to the striped or checkered shirt.
Hence, pattern proportion is of critical importance, even if the two patterns are completely different.
Do you need help matching tie patterns to your suits and shirts. The Dark Knot’s Filtered Search Option will allow you to choose ties based on tie color, patterns, tie width, matching suits, matching shirts & even the type of occasion that you are dressing up for.
Tie Fabrics
Tie Fabrics can be a significant point of differentiation when taking into account both seasonality and the type of occasion that one is dressing up for!
Cotton & Linen ties work particularly well in less formal settings, such as a country club wedding or beach setting. Moreover, their lighter weight properties provide a more casual look and less uptight aesthetic, making them ideal for more relaxed settings.
Cotton Ties are the perfect complement to a casual setting! Featuring The Dark Knot’s Melrose Floral Red Cotton Tie.
Alternatively, woolen ties can provide a great dapper, but relatively casual look during the Fall & Winter months!
Looking for easy banter and an instant conversation starter? Novelty polyester or printed silk ties, that are typically accompanied by leisurely or lifestyle related motifs, are an easy go to. With themes ranging from sports equipment (lacrosse sticks, golf clubs, tennis racquets etc) to lifestyle (marine, palm trees, safaris) motifs, these ties are quirky, fun, and a guaranteed good time!
It is important to note that one of the main reasons tie fabrics provide a more casual look is because they are typically offered as slimmer ties, adding to their inherently casual nature.
Tie Width
When evaluating tie width, proportion is arguably the most important consideration. As a general rule of thumb, tie width should be worn in proportion to your body type and the fit / lapel width of your jacket.
Tie Patterns
While we have looked at tie patterns with respect to how they would coordinate with your suits and shirts, they should also be viewed through the lens of the type of messaging different types of tie patterns convey, and, ultimately, what they represent.
Solid Ties
Solid Ties are ideal for exhibiting a sense of professionalism. Featuring The Dark Knot’s Winsted Blue Silk Tie.
Solid Ties exhibit a sense of professionalism and confidence. These ties are incredibly versatile and can be worn across a range of settings. However, these ties look best when worn within a business capacity, whether it be for daily work, an important meeting or a presentation.
The simplicity & versatility of these ties also means that they can pair perfectly with a solid, finely striped or micro checkered shirt pattern.
Please feel free to view The Dark Knot’s exquisite array of Solid Ties
Striped Ties
Despite Striped Ties being considered conventional business ties of the past, one can still make a noteworthy impression by strutting these accessories. Striped ties represent confidence, authority & a penchant for tradition.
Striped Ties can represent confidence & authority! Featuring The Dark Knot’s Canterbury Regimental Navy & Red Striped Silk Tie.
Striped Ties are ideal for more formal business environments, such as working within law or banking.
Please feel free to view The Dark Knot’s selection of Striped Ties
Foulard Pattern Ties
While geometric foulard patterned ties are definitely business appropriate, they can also be worn to a wedding reception or at a cocktail party! Featuring The Dark Knot’s Columbia Foulard Bluish Grey Silk Tie.
Foulard patterned ties work particularly well in business settings, such as daily work or an important presentation. However, given their often exemplary pattern and color sequences, they are also highly compatible with events such as a cocktail party or wedding reception.
Please feel free to view The Dark Knot’s range of stunning geometric foulard pattern ties.
Polka Dot Ties
Polka Dot Ties are intrinsically playful, whimsical and overall more enjoyable than some of the more conventional tie patterns on this list. As such, they convey a certain sense of lightheartedness. These ties tend to work best in less formal settings, such as a cocktail party or an evening out with friends.
Featuring The Dark Knot’s Newport Dots Burgundy & Silver Silk Tie.
However, polka dot ties that are offered in more formal colors, such as navy or burgundy, can be worn in professional settings, as they allow you to mix and match with a wide range of shirt patterns, given adequate spacing within the tie pattern!
Please feel free to view The Dark Knot’s range of stunning Polka Dot Ties.
Paisley Ties
Similar in messaging to polka dot ties, these ties are often considered both whimsical and artistic. Paisley ties work especially well at events such as a wedding or cocktail party.
Paisley Ties, given their intricate motifs, work exquisitely with wedding settings! Featuring The Dark Knot’s Exeter Paisley Blue / Brown Silk Tie.
Paisley Ties presented in more formal colors such as navy, burgundy or brownish gold can work perfectly in formal settings such as an important presentation. However, in these particular instances, we prefer to stick to two tone paisley ties (versus the wide array of multicolored paisley ties out there).
Please feel free to view The Dark Knot’s range of exquisite Paisley Ties.
Floral Ties
Floral Ties intrinsically carry a juxtaposition, given the dichotomy between pattern design and the accessory’s intended use. It is this very inherent paradox that makes the floral tie so alluring.
Featuring The Dark Knot’s Shanghai Floral Cream, Blue & Red Silk Tie.
Silk Floral Ties are best worn in a traditional wedding setting, while floral ties comprised of alternative fabrics, such as a summer floral cotton tie, are best worn during summer weddings or when out with friends!
Please feel free to view The Dark Knot's range of stunning Floral Ties.
Novelty Ties
Novelty Ties, as the name suggests, feature thematic lifestyle or leisurely motifs such as sports equipment, palm trees, marine life, golf clubs etc, making these neck pieces an instant banter initiator!
Featuring The Dark Knot’s Bradenton Bicycles Skinny Purple Polyester Tie.
Given the intrinsically playful nature of these ties, they are best worn in more casual settings, whether it be on an evening out with friends or on date night!
And that's a wrap for this one! We hope that you have found this article both informative & enjoyable to read!
